DBA Tips Archive for Oracle. Building an Inexpensive Oracle RAC 1. Complete Technical Acronyms, Glossary & Definitions for PC, SAN, NAS, QA, Testing, HDTV, Wireless, Linux, Embedded, Networks, Video, Digital, pharma, Unix, Video.R2 on Linux - (RHEL 5). Jeff Hunter, Sr. Database Administrator. Contents. Introduction. Oracle RAC 1. 1g Release 2 allows DBA's to configure a cluster database solution. However, DBA's who want to become more familiar with the features and. RAC cluster costing in the range of US$1. US$2. 0,0. 00. This cost would not even include the heart of a production RAC configuration. In most cases, this would be a Storage Area Network (SAN). US$1. 0,0. 00. Unfortunately, for many shops, the price of the hardware required for a. RAC configuration exceeds most training budgets. For those who want. Oracle RAC 1. 1g without a major cash outlay. Oracle RAC 1. 1g Release 2 system using commercial off- the- shelf.
US$2,8. 00. The system will consist of a two node cluster, both running Linux. Cent. OS 5. 5 for x. Oracle RAC 1. 1g Release 2 for Linux x. ASMLib 2. 0. All shared disk storage for Oracle RAC will be based on. Openfiler release 2. Network Storage Server). This guide is provided for educational purposes only, so the. For example, the. Oracle Clusterware files (OCR and voting files) and all physical. ![]() RAID). In addition, each Linux node will only be configured with two network. Oracle RAC private interconnect "and" the network. SCSI access (eth. For a production RAC. Gigabit. (or more) with redundant paths and "only" be used by Oracle to. Cluster Manager and Cache Fusion related data. A third. dedicated network interface (eth. Gigabit network for access to the network storage server. Openfiler). In addition to this guide, please see the following extensions to this. Oracle RAC. Oracle Documentation. The System x3690 X5 is a powerful two-socket 2U rack-mount server using the latest Intel Xeon processors. The x3690 X5 servers can be combined with the IBM MAX5. While this guide provides detailed instructions for successfully installing a. Oracle RAC 1. 1g system, it is by no means a substitute for. Oracle documentation (see list below). In addition to this. Oracle documents to gain a full. Oracle RAC 1. 1g. Oracle's official documentation site is. Network Storage Server. Powered by r. Path Linux. Network Attached Storage (NAS) and block- based Storage Area Networking (SAN) in a single framework. The entire software stack interfaces with open source. Apache, Samba, LVM2, ext. Linux NFS and i. SCSI Enterprise Target. Openfiler combines these ubiquitous technologies into a small, easy to manage solution. Openfiler supports CIFS, NFS, HTTP/DAV, FTP, however, we will only be making use of its. SCSI capabilities to implement an inexpensive SAN for the shared storage components. Oracle RAC 1. 1g. The operating system (r. Path Linux) and the Openfiler. SATA disk. A second internal 7. GB 1. 5K SCSI. hard disk will be configured as a single. The Openfiler server will be configured to. SCSI based storage and will be used in our Oracle RAC 1. Oracle Grid Infrastructure and the Oracle RAC database. Oracle Grid Infrastructure 1. Release 2 (1. 1. 2). With Oracle Grid Infrastructure 1. Release 2 (1. 1. 2). Automatic Storage Management (ASM) and Oracle Clusterware. Grid Infrastructure home. You must install the Grid Infrastructure in order to use Oracle RAC 1. Release 2. Configuration assistants start after the installer interview process that. ASM and Oracle Clusterware. While the installation of the combined products is called Oracle Grid Infrastructure. Oracle Clusterware and Automatic Storage Manager remain separate products. After Oracle Grid Infrastructure is installed and configured on both nodes in the cluster. Oracle Real Application Clusters (Oracle RAC). Oracle RAC nodes. In this article, the Oracle Grid Infrastructure and Oracle RAC software. Job Role Separation configuration. One OS user will. Oracle software product —. Oracle Grid Infrastructure owner. Oracle RAC software. Throughout this article. Oracle Grid Infrastructure binaries is called the. This user will own both the Oracle Clusterware and. Oracle Automatic Storage Management binaries. The user created to own the Oracle. Oracle RAC) will be called the oracle user. Both Oracle software. Oracle Inventory group (oinstall) as their primary group. Oracle software installation owner can write to the central inventory. Inventory), and so that OCR and Oracle Clusterware resource permissions are. The Oracle RAC software owner must also have the OSDBA group and the. OSOPER group as secondary groups. Assigning IP Address. Prior to Oracle Clusterware 1. Release 2, the only method available for. IP addresses to each of the Oracle RAC nodes was to have the network administrator. IP addresses in DNS — never to use DHCP. This would include the public IP address for the node, the RAC interconnect, virtual IP address (VIP). Release 2, the. Single Client Access Name. SCAN) virtual IP address(s). Oracle Clusterware 1. Release 2 now provides two methods for assigning IP addresses. Oracle RAC nodes. Assigning IP addresses dynamically using. Grid Naming Service. GNS) which makes use of DHCP. The traditional method of manually assigning static IP addresses in. Domain Name Service. DNS). Assigning IP Addresses Dynamically using Grid Naming Service (GNS). A new method for assigning IP addresses was introduced in. Oracle Clusterware 1. Release 2 named Grid Naming Service (GNS). VIP addresses to be dynamically assigned using DHCP. GNS and DHCP are key elements to Oracle's new Grid Plug and Play (GPn. P). feature that, as Oracle states, eliminates per- node configuration. GNS enables a dynamic Grid Infrastructure. All name resolution requests for the cluster within a sub- domain delegated. DNS are handed off to GNS using multicast Domain Name Service (m. DNS). included within the Oracle Clusterware. Using GNS eliminates the need for. IP addresses and name resolution and is especially advantageous in. While assigning IP addresses using GNS certainly has its benefits and. IP addresses. it does come at the cost of complexity and requires components not defined in. For example, activating GNS in a cluster requires a DHCP server. Oracle RAC. The example Oracle RAC configuration described in this guide will. IP addresses in. To learn more about the benefits and how to configure GNS, please see. Oracle Grid Infrastructure Installation Guide 1. Release 2 (1. 1. 2) for Linux. Assigning IP Addresses Manually using Static IP Address - (The DNS Method). If you choose not to use GNS, manually defining static IP addresses is still. Oracle Clusterware 1. Release 2 and will be the method. Oracle Clusterware networking components. IP address for the node, RAC interconnect, virtual IP address, and. SCAN virtual IP). It should be pointed out that previous to Oracle 1. Release 2. the need for DNS in order to successfully configure Oracle RAC was. It was technically possible (although not. IP addresses only. This actually worked to my advantage with any of my previous articles. RAC because it was one less component to. So, why is the use of DNS now a requirement when manually assigning. IP addresses? The answer is. Oracle Clusterware 1. Release 2 requires the use of DNS in order to. SCAN virtual IP address(s). In addition to the requirement of configuring. SCAN virtual IP address in DNS, we will also configure the public and. IP address for all Oracle RAC nodes in DNS for name resolution. If you do not have access to a DNS, instructions will be included. DNS server on the Openfiler network storage server. When using the DNS method for assigning IP addresses, Oracle. IP addresses be manually configured. DNS before starting the Oracle Grid Infrastructure. Single Client Access Name (SCAN) for the Cluster. If you have ever been tasked with extending an Oracle RAC cluster by adding. RAC cluster by removing a node), then you know. SQL*Net. or JDBC configuration to reflect the new or deleted node. To address this problem, Oracle 1. Release 2 introduced a new. Single Client Access Name or SCAN for short. SCAN is a new feature that provides a single host name for clients to. Oracle Database running in a cluster. Clients using SCAN. TNS configuration if you add or remove nodes in the cluster. The SCAN resource and its associated IP address(s) provide a stable name. You will be asked to provide the host name. SCAN name in this document) and up to three IP addresses. SCAN resource during the interview phase of the. Oracle Grid Infrastructure installation. For high availability and scalability, Oracle recommends that you. SCAN name for round- robin resolution to three IP addresses. At a minimum, the SCAN must resolve to at least one address. The SCAN virtual IP name is similar to the names used for a node's. IP address, such as racnode. However. unlike a virtual IP, the SCAN is associated with the entire cluster. Latest Topics | ZDNet. Technology has long been used to improve how we learn, but today's digital advances, particularly with social media, have taken learning in powerful new - - and for some - - entirely unexpected directions. Dion Hinchcliffe in Collaboration.
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After all, your members are supposed to deal mainly in rough diamonds? It was a very logical thing to happen. Our members’ businesses are very much diversified and most members of the Kring do business in both rough and polished. Also, Antwerp’s four diamond bourses [The fourth bourse is the Vrije Diamanthandel- ed.] are united in the Federation of Belgian Diamond Bourses (FBDB). The Western Heritage 8th Edition Notes Of Obsession WikiWe can only achieve success in ventures such as the ADFT, if we act as a single unit. As such, we always look at the bigger picture, and that means we’re always trying to create and bring more added value to all of our collective members. The ADK, too, has always been eager to improve the business environment for its members. This is a common interest across the board, and in the case of the bourses across the streets of the diamond district,” Inzlicht smiled. ![]() We understood a long time ago that the more united we are, the stronger and better we will become.”. Therefore, our members’ interest and involvement in the ADTF has been there from the fair’s inception in 2. ADTF. And since last year, the ADK’s beautiful diamond trading hall has become an integral part of the fair, enabling us to increase the number of exhibitors to 9. At the upcoming fair in February, members of all the four bourses in Antwerp will once again display what Antwerp does best: putting the world’s best, brightest and most brilliant choice of diamonds on display for leading jewellers coming from all over the world, to see, inspect and buy, from the beating heart of the Antwerp diamond district.”. Willy Rotti is president of the Diamond Club of Antwerpand also of the FBDB. Why has the ADTF become such an interesting fair for select diamond buyers, we inquired? And is it truly an expression of Antwerp’s entire diamond business community? It is, in fact, very simple,” he explains. Antwerp is the world’s number one diamond trading center. Some 8. 0 percent of all rough diamonds mined come through the city’s diamond offices and more than 5. To understand the journey of diamonds throughout the world, watch the new movie that the Antwerp World Diamond Centre – the ADTF’s chief sponsor – released some time ago! Antwerp is also a mirror of all the other diamond hubs in the world. Take a walk on the streets of the diamond quarter, and you will meet people from all over the world, who either live here and run their businesses or come here on business – buying and selling rough or polished diamonds. Anyone, any company that wants to succeed in the global diamond business, must have a presence in Antwerp. You cannot run a successful diamond business without being involved in Antwerp, because all roads in the diamond business lead to Antwerp. Therefore, when jewelry manufacturers, designers, and retailers want to buy polished diamonds and want to be absolutely sure they will find what they need – they come here. The ADTF was created as a platform, an on- site showcase as it were, that enables visiting buyers to get a rapid overview of what Antwerp has to offer, to make many contacts, to inspect an incredible variety and selection of goods and make purchases. Nothing beats Antwerp. Marcel Pruwer is president of the Antwerp Diamond Bourse – Beurs voor Diamanthandel in Dutch. You can browse the collection of works currently on display at the hotel via The Henry Jones Art Catalogue: our online gallery catalogue. Breaking news, weather, analysis and information from the Omaha World-Herald about Omaha events, local weather, sports, schools, crime, government, health and. The Bourse, as it is called for short, established the ADTF in 2. Club joining the fair in 2. Kring in 2. 01. 4. Why, we asked Pruwer, is the format of the ADTF so successful? In all modesty, we did not re- invent the wheel, but copied a concept that already existed in the finished jewelry market. However, by introducing the concept of a ‘by- invitation- only’ trade show to the loose diamond business, we created a new diamond buying experience for jewelers, in the heart of Antwerp’s diamond district. Every year, we invite between 1. Antwerp for the very first time, to experience the power of Antwerp. We pick them up at the airport, provide complimentary hotel rooms, wine and dine them, and take good care of them during the entire show, until dropping them- off at the airport, three days later. In addition, we host hundreds of returning visitors who were given the VIP treatment in earlier years, and who keep coming back, now that they have become acquainted and familiar with our fair, to participate and buy diamonds. Often, these newcomers have already met with Antwerp companies at international gem and jewelry trade shows. But we realized a number of years ago, while they have been doing business with Antwerp- based firms, many of them had never set foot in Antwerp itself, let alone visited the diamond quarter. The ADTF has been, is and will be the catalyst of change, as it literally opens the gates of the diamond quarter to prospective buyers. We are combining old things in new ways. With the ADTF we took an existing idea and applied it differently, and thus created a new idea. In my view, in this way we contribute to innovation and the renewal of the gem and jewelry business. 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There are many ways to lose a pregnancy—from the traditional bleeding in the toilet, to a missed miscarriage where you don’t even know that you miscarried, to a blighted ovum where the baby never started growing at all, to an ectopic pregnancy, where the fetus implanted in the wrong place. I’ve had most of them—they all suck, let me tell you—and I’ve learned the important ways to deal with a miscarriage. Chances are you were told in school that you could get pregnant any time you have sex so don’t have …Read more First, you will probably be in shock. No matter how nervous you were about becoming a mom, no matter how skeptical you were of the pregnancy working out, you will be disappointed times a million. And as awful as this all is—sad and frustrating and emotional—the first thing you have to do is figure out how to start or complete the miscarriage process. There are a number of ways to terminate a failed pregnancy (and I’ve done most of them). Naturally. This means you just let nature take its course. You wait for the bleeding to start and for the pregnancy to pass. For very early pregnancies, like chemical pregnancies which never registered a heartbeat, this is often the recommended route. My very first miscarriage—where I didn’t really know I was pregnant until the prior day—passed this way, and it felt like a really late period. Had I not taken three pregnancy tests, that’s what I would have assumed it was.)Some women prefer to do the natural way no matter how far along in their first trimester they are, but the downside is that you could be waiting a while—which totally creeped me out in my second miscarriage, knowing there was a non- living fetus inside of me. Also, it could be super messy (ditto on the creepy). And it can also be incomplete, sending you to surgery anyway (see #3). The Pill. There is a pill that can help the miscarriage proceed faster—especially if it already started. Misoprostol, which induces labor (and for miscarriages is often given together with Mifepristone) also can be messy and from what I’ve heard, extremely painful. I was advised not to use this because you often end up in surgery anyway (see #3). Surgery. As you can see from my previous two conclusions, I am a big fan of the surgical procedure to terminate a failed pregnancy, specifically the D& C. I am not a doctor, so I can’t give any medical advice except to tell you there are risks to every surgery. But as a patient, by my third miscarriage, I preferred this method of removing the contents of the uterus, usually under general anesthesia. There is a surgical procedure called “aspiration” which involves a vacuum and no general, but I found it awful to be awake, making conversation and watching everything happening.) An ectopic pregnancy must be surgically removed. Here’s why I preferred the D& C: Your pregnancy is terminated quickly and painlessly, for the most part. You don’t have to witness any of the sad bloodshed. It is the most effective way of making sure everything is removed and to get you ready for your next pregnancy. MOST IMPORTANTLY and I can’t stress this enough so I’m going to give it a separate headline .. Get It Tested. If you have surgery you can get what is medically called “the products of conception” tested. That means they can chromosomally test your fetus and see what, if anything, was wrong with it. For older patients, patients undergoing IVF, or in my non- medical opinion, any patient, it is a great comfort to find out that something was wrong with the fetus, which is why it didn’t make it. On the other hand, if they find out that there was nothing wrong with the baby—that it was chromosomally normal—you can investigate other solutions to prevent it from recurring. In fact, I’m such a fan of this method that by my 4th—and final—miscarriage—I scheduled it right away so I could make sure not to lose my chance to test the products. Moving On. It’s only after you’ve dealt with ending the miscarriage that the real loss may hit you: you’re not pregnant anymore. The sadness of this will be accompanied by actual physical symptoms, such as a drop in hormones— those happy- making chemicals that buoyed your bump. I myself often experienced a palpable gut- wrench from the drop, as well as a weight gain that no doctor had warned me about. Look, I’m not going to sugar coat this: There was no good thing about any of my miscarriages. And most people didn’t have any good things to say about it either, like, “At least you can get pregnant.” (Thanks a lot). But maybe the one good thing that can come out of this is that I suffered through indecision and different procedures so you don’t have to. 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HD Stacker TV antenna user reviews. Jason from Texas says.."I just want to say Thanks! Your web site, your HD Stacker antenna and your service after the sale has made one happy customer."Unedited emails and pictures from customer"s who have purchased and installed the HD Stacker antenna. Don's HD Stacker Tombstone AZ. My new HD stacker was installed (by me) and working great. The unit was shipped and received quickly and was easy to assemble and mounted, and I am a old guy. I had been searching for a unit for a lengthy time and found bad ratings on almost all, until I found Denny's tv web sight. I was impressed with the testing that was done by them and the facts presented from the testing. I live in Tombstone Arizona and according to the FCC locater I have only access to a very weak signal on 3 Tucson stations ( 8. I purchased the HD Stacker and a gable end mount and pipe from Denny's. Upon their arrival I found the assemblies were complete with all needed hardware and the instructions easy to comply with, I did use a old rotor on the unit . Installation was just a few hours and upon completion I found that I get all digital stations from Tucson 3. Old Mexico which include discovery tbs and wgn although being analog they are not great reception. We had some weather from California last week that included some 6. MPH winds and the mounts and antenna suffered no harm. I would recommend this unit and Denny's excellent customer service to anyone who needs a antenna. I have attached a couple of pictures of my antenna. Thought I would write and tell you my success story. I ordered the HD- Stacker over a year ago, and have been waiting for the person to come install since then. Finally, at the beginning of December, after Dish erased all of my recorded programs from the Hopper (the final straw with them), I gave up waiting and decided to install the stacker myself. I am 7. Last week, I finally found a day that the weather would allow me to place the antenna in the yard. So I printed off the instructions, found a screwdriver, and put it together. No problem. It was just a giant erector set but with not as many pieces. Most of them were already done. In fact there were only 1. Mounted it on a pole and took it outside and dropped it into the just retired satellite stand. Screwed the grounding block on side of house and attached cord. Came inside and started attaching the six TV's one by one and scanned channels. I had four of them perfect and then on the fifth I ran out of signal strength. So I then put the booster I ordered between the antenna and the splitter and loaded the last two on. All 6 of the TV's can be played at the same time with an absolutely beautiful picture on all of them. All of the TV's are at least 1. So if anyone says they are not sure they can do it. Tell them if a woman my age can do it, anyone can. Thank you for your pre- purchase advice and support. It gave me confidence when I embarked on the installation, that I knew I could call you, if I needed too. Denny.. had to send you a picture of the HD STACKER antenna in my Living room, just mounted it here until the weather breaks, then it goes on the Roof, dont know how long the Wife is going to let it stay in here.. Just wanted to let you know, the Picture is better than my Satelite Company was, I' m getting 1. NBC, 8. 5 to 9. 0% on all others, CBS, ABC.. Now Im saving $1. Weather has been brutal here in Northeast Ohio, probably the same for you in Michigan.. I will send more pictures, when its mounted on the roof..... Casey. Update: Outside, mounted with the Eave Mount... Casey Rowe, Wakeman, Ohio... I ordered the HD Stacker, five foot tri- pod, and the five foot mast pole. All arrived on the third day after being ordered. I must admit, I was surprised when I opened the box and seen the HD Stacker. I wasn't suspecting what I was seeing. I figured it would be another light weight antenna that might last a couple years. This antenna is the most heavy built one I have ever seen. I never got to the roof with the antenna. It is setting in my back yard on the tripod with the five foot mast pole, and receiving every available channel we can receive here in the Southern Missouri Ozarks. Some of the transmitters are about 6. I will leave it there for a while to make sure it continues to work like it does currently. If it does, I guess I will be digging about three holes to pour some concrete into and them and bolting the tri- pod down near to where it sits. We couldn't be more happier with the HD Stacker. By the way, just talked to a guy this afternoon who was at a local electronics place that sells antennas. He didn't find what he wanted. I told him about the HD Stacker and gave him your number. I suspect we'll be getting in touch with you soon, he had just canceled his Dish Network. Have a good day. Chet. HD Stacker 5 year report. Glen Allen, VA. Denny, I was recently going through some papers and came across the invoice of my purchase of the HD Stacker antenna. It's been 5 years since I made the purchase. When I called to order you told me it was brand new to the market and I was the first customer to order this antenna. I'm just writing to tell you that after 5 years the antenna is still working great. We have had strong winds, ice, snow, and severe thunderstorms and the antenna survived it all. It's working as good today as when I installed on the roof 5 years ago. Thanks for high quality product and good service. Sincerely, Ben G. This is just a note to say thank you for your quick service and knowledgeable staff. I have successfully ran the cable, and installed the HD Stacker on a pole in my backyard and now have 3. FREE tv. And I did it all by myself.. I'm a lady. Yes, It was that easy!!! Thank you so much. Great product. My entire Sunday School class will be looking you up on the internet. They call me Kelly the Cable Girl now. Bet you will have a rush of sales from Mississippi shortly. Kelly C. HD Stacker Review. Dekalb, IL. Denny, Your HD Stacker is one amazing antenna. Two years ago I bought the Antennacraft CCS1. The antenna is a monster at 1. In my area the Rockford channels are easy to get but I also wanted the Chicago stations. The CCS1. 84. 3 with preamplifier got most of the Chicago stations but I did't like it on my roof because of its size. I came across your HDStacker design and with some hesitation thought I would give it a try. The HDStacker has been on my roof for about a month and I couldn't be happier. It's less than half the size of the CCS1. When I installed the Stacker I didn't change anything except the antenna and I now get slightly stronger signals and 2 more channels. With the CCS 1. 84. I couldn't watch CBS 2. Jason ________________________ Pleasant street. Dekalb, IL. Above: A perfect example of an HD Stacker antenna, preamplifier and Eave Mount installation. Great job Bill. HD Stacker Review. Ocean Park, Washington. Dennis,I am the envy of my neighbors because I get 4 more channels than they do and the picture is perfect! Thanks for a great product but more importantly your customer service. I have included two new pictures of my installation that you can be proud to share. I have two neighbors who are going to buy your antenna come spring (they are snow birds and leaving for Arizona) lucky dogs. Thanks again, and thanks for making my installation successful. Sincerely,Bill __________Ocean Park, Washington. Hd Stacker Review. South Haven, MI. Mark's HD Stacker TV antenna in South Haven, MI. Good morning, Denny and crew! Mark _____________ here from South Haven! Last December, I drove to your shop in Ithaca to see the HDStacker antenna and to hopefully talk withyou. You were out…so I spent some time with your wife and her father in the shop. She may remember me as “the TV 9 & 1. I had mentioned I worked there as a reporter and photographer from 1. Anyhoo…I purchased the HD Stacker kit with rotor and pre- amp, and erected a 5. Rohn tower and had the antenna attached atop over the weekend. After making all of the connections, we did the initial scan on the main living room TV set. The first station that popped up after the scan was WBAY- TV in Green Bay, some 1. Learn to Lead Climb Courses & Techniques Climbing Protection - Choosing the Right Equipment Choosing and placing protection is a key skill that must be mastered if you are considering leading trad (traditional) routes. Protection is a generic term for the equipment that a climber places in the rock to act as a temporary anchor point in the event of a fall. There are three main types of protection: Slings Passive Protection - wallnuts, wires, nuts + hexes. Active Protection - camming devices. Climbing Slings These are normally commercially manufactured from high strength tape that is sewn into an open loop sling with multiple bar tacks binding the two ends together. The slings are used by climbers in two ways - used as a direct anchor by being threaded through or around rock features or being used as a connector to extend a safety system. The most common slings carried by climbers today are generically referred to as "dyneema" slings. Dyneema is the registered trademark name of an Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibre that is manufactured and licensed by the company DSM. There are other producers making very similar UHMWPE fibers with different trade names - Honeywell's Spectra being a key example. Slings that use UHMWPE fibres in their construction have gained in popularity because of their low weight and bulk combined with high tensile strength. UHMWPE slings used in climbing always have a second component - normally nylon - that is used to add durability to the finished product. Dyneema fibres are very hard to dye and so the vast majority of dyneema thread is white in colour. ![]() Thus when you look at a dyneema sling the coloured fibres are (generally) nylon (very occasionally polyester) and the whites fibres are dyneema. The other main material used for making climbing slings is nylon. Each material has advantages and disadvantages. Climbing slings sold within the EU countries have to be able to hold a force of 2. Start Lead Climbing - Courses and Instruction Learning to lead climb is one of the biggest and most important steps that rock climbers have to make. “Arigatou gozaimasu,” I said as we bowed to each other several times. The staff pointed to the spot where I could remove my shoes before I entered the gym’s. Worlds leading website about sport climbing, ranking of the best climbers in the world, articles about climbing and training. As a first time buyer, purchasing climbing shoes can be a daunting task. Even to a veteran, the prospect can be prohibitive. Unlike your street shoes, an approximate. N as defined in EN5. Nylon tape can not hit this minimum value consistently unless it is 1. A narrow sling allows the climber to thread it through narrower constrictions / gaps and this is a considerable advantage. Durability of any sling will depend on the exact composition of its fibres and how those fibres are woven together, however it is fair to say that nylon slings are generally more durable than dyneema slings - resisting abrasion better and being more resistant to fluffing/pulled threads. Always look for a nice tight weave on skinny slings. The other disadvantages with dyneema / spectra slings are mainly related to their physical properties that makes them less tolerant of user error / poor practice. These properties are the relatively low melting point of UHMWPE fibres (1. Celsius), low friction (similar in value to Teflon) and an innate inelasticity. Low melting point is often cited as a disadvantage of dyneema, however you would need to be fairly dumb to get a failure caused by melting. Key things to avoid would be using dyneema slings as prusics ( they wont work very well either) and avoid larks footing skinny dyneema slings and then bouncing on them directly or indirectly via a top rope system. The low friction of UHMWPE fibres leads to poor knot- holding ability so don't ever think about constructing your own dyneema sling - even with a super- duper- ultra safe knot. It will unravel when you least want it to. The innate inelasticity of dyneema means that it does not take well to being shock loaded - i. The most common lengths of slings carried by climbers are: 1. These slings have a linear length of 6. This length of sling is great for extending runners on long pitches and for connecting yourself quickly into anchors before setting up the main rope belay. Very skinny versions of this sling are brilliant for using as extendable quickdraws. Probably the most popular and overall most useful length. Great for rigging belays, slinging over spikes and generally linking items together. Really useful for setting up belays, but generally too long to haul up routes. Passive Climbing Protection These are normally aluminium or soft metal wedges attached to a loop of steel wire/tape/cord that are placed in narrowing cracks or restrictions in the rock face. Nuts are manufactured in many different varieties. They are often referred toas wires and nuts. There are 3 general groups: Micros - RP's, DMM IMP's and BD Swedges Standard - DMM Wallnuts, DMM Offsets, WC Rocks and Metolius Curve Nuts. Large - Hexcentrics (Hexes), WC Rockcentrics and DMM Torques a. Micros: These are the smallest nuts in a climbers arsenal, they are generally weaker than larger nuts because they can only be threaded/connected to thinner and, hence, weaker wire. They are invaluable in protecting harder climbs because they fit where nothing else will go. Micros are either manufactured by silver soldering a 'brass' nut onto a stainless steel wire or swaging an aluminium alloy nut onto a steel wire. There is a lot of nonsense bounced around about silver soldered nuts being a lot stronger than swaged nuts - most of which is either exaggerated or based on falsehoods. The ultimate strength of a nut in a laboratory environment will depend on the thickness of the wire used - the thicker the wire the stronger the nut. On any given size of nut there is maximum size of wire that can be inserted into it - no matter whether soldered of swaged. Add to this the fact that standard steel wire as used on swaged nuts has a higher tensile strength than the stainless steel wire that must be used on soldered nuts. Thus an examination of rated strengths shows an equivalence between soldered and swaged nuts. The RP nuts generally are rated higher than other brands, but based on a knowledge of stainless steel wire strengths it may be that these strengths are based on mean rather than 3 sigma strengths. The RP 2 however is a clear winner - the ability to put a 2. There is a comparison table of micro wires on the Micro Nuts page. The best micros currently available are RPs - small brass nuts with a slight, fairly regular taper that are silver soldered onto stainless steel wire. RP's were the designed by Roland Pauligk in Australia and every brass nut is still meticulously crafted by Roland in Australia. They don't have a CE certificate and so can't be sold in Europe, but sizes 2 + 3 are invaluable to any extreme leader. BD Swedges are OK, but their high hardness (9. Rockwell) means they just don't bite into marginal placements as well as RP's (7. Rockwell), plus their wire is too stiff and can lead to them being dislodged more easily if they are not extended properly. DMM also now have a couple of ranges of silver soldered micro nuts available and these look good - I have been using these DMM IMPs for the last 9 months and they are every bit as good as RP's. The swaged alloy micro nuts (i. DMM Micro Wallnuts) offer greater, surface contact which is an important consideration as a common mechanism for failure in real life is the nut pulling through the placement. Once again the devil is in the detail - using a stronger 7. DMM Micro Wallnuts gives extra holding power compared to a softer 6. Micros in the greater scheme of things are relatively weak (2k. N to 8k. N), so always try to place them in clusters, tell your belayer to give a soft, dynamic belay in the event of a fall and use a nylon ripstop/screamer to slow down/limit the load applied to the nuts. Dyneema ripstops are pretty useless - they can't absorb enough energy - use nylon ripstops, but be aware that even they have a limit to the amount of energy they can absorb) b. Standard Nuts. These are the mainstay of any climbers arsenal so choose wisely because although the may look similar there are significant differences in how they perform. In general these nuts are manufactured by swaging alloy nuts onto steel wire. The shape of the nut head, the thickness of the nut walls, the alloy material used and the thickness and construction of the wire will together dictate the overall performance and characteristics of the nut. In general the basic, slightly tapered wedges should be avoided - they just don't sit well in a lot of placements. In my opinion the best nuts on the market at the moment are: i. DMM Wallnuts - Great shape that allows really versatile placements, but also makes them harder to clean.. They are also light. WC Rocks - The other main nut used in the UK - good all round shape. The 'Classic' rocks should be avoided - horrible, heavy copies of the real thing. |
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November 2017
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